October 31, 2008

Guide to storing & transporting your army cheaply

How to store & transport your miniature army
A review of the various options open to wargamer

As my Warhammer collection began to grow I realised that I needed to transport it more safely and securely rather than simply piling everything into a shoebox. Warmachines and character figures especially were important to protect. Dwarf warriors etc are not so problematic, but once I started getting High Elves my problems with a lack of transport really started. So what are the options? There are several that I have reviewed and tried, and this a summary of those and my view of their relative merits.

Official Carry Cases
Available from official GW retailers and sell at most New Zealand stores for around $90 - $180 depending on which size. Each comes with pre-cut foam inserts each of various sizes. The basic model case can hold 118 figures including some larger pieces and is adequeate for a 1500-2000 point army but only if its infantry heavy.

The standard size carry case

The larger case has double the carrying capacity of the smaller model but is a limited edition and hence a lot more expensive. I haven't seen any stores in New Zealand that stock it but some Australian suppliers do, including the GW store. However, the retail prices is A$180 which is well over NZ$200 no matter what the exchange rate.

The limited edition army case

The cases are well made and the foam is good quality, and I know a few guys at the Club and locally use them. However, there are other options available that are much cheaper. While these are nice I personally would not recommend them as simply put you can get the same functionality for much cheaper elsewhere.

Egg Cartons & Office Storage Products
A tried and tested New Zealand favourite and one my wife suggested. The benefits of these are that they're cheap, or if you grab them from your local recycling centre absolutely free. The can be cut up to fit into any size cardboard box you might have. The egg recesses are a nice size for any size model and can easily hold large size figures such as horses (always a problem). You have two ways to do with egg cartons - the egg tray or the standard dozen and 1/2 dozen carton.

The egg tray is a great place to start. Quite easy to carry and each can hold 30 standard size figures at 1 per hole, or double that if you have Dwarfs or other small stuff. Or if you dont mind double up on things. If you cut out the tops of the gaps between each insert you can also make areas big enough to hold horses and still leave room underneath for the smaller stuff.

The other option is the standard egg cartoon which while smaller has the advantage of having a lid which you can close for further protection. The drawwbacks? Well they aren't foam so the figures can get bumped around, carrying them can be difficult and its hard to put in larger models and ones with long bits, e.g., Knights with Lances, High Elf Spearmen and Ogres.

But there is a way to get around the carrying issue and thats simply to use shoeboxes, or ready made office product storage boxes and cut your egg trays etc to fit them. The file storage box of this size, designed to fit files of slightly bigger than A4 size, is perfect for carrying egg cartons around. You can fit about 1.5 full egg trays into one and still have some slight room around the edges for dice, templates and a tape measure. Alternatively grab something a little bigger and stack your cartons to carry more.

Combining official stuff & standard office products
Alternatively to get the best of both worlds you could try combining each of the elements above. A few retailers sell the GW type storage trays (like below) as separate items. However, these while having all the advantages of pre-cut foam are expensive. The one below is from Australia and retails for A$44, so buying them singly means costs nearly double compared to the standard GW carry case.

Or if you like your free egg cartons but want something a little more functional to carry them in, then go for a standard briefcase or cheap tool box. I picked up one similar to the image below at the Warehouse for NZ$20

Its a cheap sturdy product that can hold alot of material. Using egg trays and egg cartons I managed to fit 4 layers of figures into it along with movement trays, dice and everything else I needed. The lift out tray was also good for extra bits like glue, terrain etc. Unlike cardboard carry boxes its also waterproof, can be lockable depending upon type, and is easy to carry.

Making your own foam trays
So far our best option for storage trays have been the pre-made official versions. But hey, foam is cheap so why not make them yourself. There are a number of options available to you here. First up is the top-quality speciality foam made for camera cases etc. This is either cut to shape, comes in standard box sizes without any inserts cut into them, or comes in a neat little segmented unit that allows you to create inserts by pulling out individual squares. The advantages of this stuff is that it is often more flexible and easy to use than egg crates. It stores your stuff far more safely than egg containers and you can stack it more easily. However, it is very expensive, more expensive in most cases than buying the official GW type carry trays.

So I recommend going with the option I, and most of my Club mates, use which is to buy cheap foam and cut it up yourself. Locally the best place to go is Pararubber, a store that sells foam mattresses etc for camping and specialises in swimming pools etc. They sell foam blocks (like below) cheap as chips in a range of thicknesses and sizes.

Better yet as they also cut foam to suit individual customers they tend to have off cut bins where you can buy foam even cheaper than normal. For cost comparisons you simply cant beat them. Heres why?

  • GW Storage Tray - holds 36 standard figures and costs NZ$60+
  • Egg Carton - holds 30 standard figures is free but doesnt protect your stuff well
  • Foam blocks - hold as many figures as you cut holes for and costs NZ$3-10 for a block. Plus you can cut them to fit big models, e.g., Giants, Dragons, Heavy Warjacks etc that egg cartons and GW trays CAN'T fit.
So thats what I use. A simple plastic toolbox, a large one, and a whole bunch of foam trays I picked up from Pararubber. Total cost for the toolbox, and enough foam to store all of my Warhammer and Warmachine pieces thats approx 10,000 pts of Warhammer, 1800 pts of Warmachine and around 400+ models was.... $20 for toolbox and approx. $50 for all of the foam.

October 29, 2008

Making my own magnetic bases & other stuff

Another great site I would highly recommend is WeeToySoldiers.com sadly its owner has said goodbye after 2.5 years but has left his site up and running. There are a huge range of good articles on there among them the following:

He gave permission for people to copy his content so Ill be printing a lot of it out, and duplicating some of it on Stumpy Heaven to preserve it. The magnetic movement trays article I will be putting to good use as part of my High Elf Army project

October 28, 2008

Choir of Menoth - Painting the Acolyte

Went to Wellington over the weekend and stopped by Wargames Supply and picked up a Choir of Menoth Warpriest and Acolyte. Still waiting for them to get my online order sorted out. Ill give it to the end of the week and if I havent got it ill be cancelling it. For a store that is only 150km away their service is pretty crap, especially in comparison to the Warstore in the US who dispatched an order I made online with them last Thursday 2 days later. I expect to get that order before Wargames Supply's one.

Anyway, I really enjoyed painting the Choir unit. Wanted to make the Warpriest stand out and decided to really go to town on the detail on the Acolyte. Overall, the results were great and the best that I think I have done so far and I am very happy with the outcome.

The Painting Process
Started with a base coat of standard white (not GW but just normal house paint) over the top of a flocked base, used GF9 sand not GW stuff. First part I started on was the Acolytes main robe with a coat of Bleached Bone. This was followed by a layer of Gryphonne Sepia to help create a faded look. Once this was dry Skull White was used to highlight the raised areas leaving the Sepia and Bleached Bone in the recesses, and near the bottom of the cloak.

Once the Skull White was dry I added another thin layer of Gryphonne Sepia and smaller touch ups of Skull White to assist in highlighting more, then moved onto the rest of the model. The Scroll was painted in the same way but with a couple of additions. These were Snakebike Leather which was dry brushed on around the edges, as well as the on the sleeves and hand wraps of the Acolyte. Additional layers of Sepia wash and Ogryn Flesh also helped bring out the scroll's papyrus type colour.

The red areas were a bit trickier. I started with a base of Scab Red and highlighted this with Baal Red. Once dry Blood Red went over the raised areas followed by Warlock Purple. Unfortunately this made the robe look to pink, so I rewashed it this time with Black Ink which made an immediate impact darkening the robe and really highlighting the folds in the fabric. Further touch ups of Scab Red, Warlock Purple and Chaos Black helped finalise the colour with a hint of Leviathan Purple washed over as well.

The rest of the model was a big experiment. The Cross was painted the same way as the red robes, but with added highlights of Shining Gold. Shining Gold was also used to highlight the shoulder armour and parts of the Acolytes facemask which had already been covered in BoltGun Metal and washed with Black Ink. Over the top of the Shining Gold went small touch ups of Chestnut Ink and in a couple of small spots some Thraka Green (a suggestion from my wife) to age the metal somewhat.

The face and hands were fairly easy to do as I followed the technique I use for my Dwarfs. Dwarf Flesh followed by Flesh Wash then highlights of Elf Flesh, although this time I also used the Ogryn Flesh wash from the Citadal range. For a bit of creative difference this time I had a go at painting the eyes using Skull White to get the main parts and then little dabs of Enchanted Blue for the Iris's - took about 5-10 minutes to do this as I was literally adding one tiny drop at a time. For my first ever effort at eyes I think it turned out OK, although the right eye is a bit off centre.
The final elements were the writing on the scroll and the dirt on the bottom of the Acolytes robe. The dirt was the easy part. I wanted to get away from the clean white look, hence the use of Bleached Bone and the washes earlier. So to the bottom of the robe I added Devlan Mud and Thraka Green, washes I also added to the flock on the base. A slightly smaller amount of Ogryn Flesh wash was also added in some areas, notably the front of the robe. Then to really highlight the mud effect on the bottom of the robe I retouched the top half with Skull White to make it much brighter than I had originally intended. Overall, result worked out quite well.
The scroll work was fun to do. The cross of Menoth was just Chaos Black edged by Scab Red applied in very small amounts using a tiny brush. The I used Codex Grey to put some fake writing on the scroll work. Over the top of this to help age the scroll I added more Ogryn Flesh and a bit of Devlan Mud. Final touch was a layer of Purity Seal.

October 24, 2008

Warmachine Battle Report 1000pts 2v2

Unlikely Partners
Menoth & Circle vs. Khador & Everblight

This was a 2v2 match with my Protectorate & Richards Circle vs. Toshi's Khador and Hank's Everblight. Was scheduled for last week but I couldnt make it for various reasons. 500 pts each, meant 1000 pts aside. As the club has been purchasing a lot of new terrain lately (and making even more) we had a great board set up with a good assortment of terrain features. Khador & Everblight won the initial dice roll, choose their side, deployed first and moved first.
[For the Khador perspective click here]

The Armies
I wasnt quite sure what Circle had so got some advice from Toshi and asked around and saw strong focus on RAT troops helped balance out my weaknesses. Only real choice I had to make (as my model collection is still limited) was what caster to take and how many Warjacks. List for our side was:

  • Kreoss
  • Crusader
  • Crusader
  • Revenger
  • Temple Flameguard (10) + Unit detachment
  • Flameguard Cleansers (6)


  • Woldwyrd
  • Woldwarden
  • Baldur Stonecleaver
  • Druids of Orboros
  • Lord of the Feast
  • Sentry Stone
  • Mannikon
  • Wolves of Orboror

Hope I spelt and got those right. Khador went with 2 Heavy Warjacks, some long-gunner type guys, the solo with the Axe and a couple of smaller units. Not sure who the warcaster was (didnt write it down- oops!) but it wasnt Kharkev which was nice. Everblight was the usual assortment from my last match against him although he had a couple of new units in there this time round.

The Battlefield & Deployment
Played on a standard 6x4 size table with board dominated by a large village on the left and a range of forests on the right (looking from my side). A road through the majority of the board offered some good movement bonuses for Warjacks, and the number of walls etc also offered good concealment. However, terrain features were negated by the Everblights Pathfinder abilities, but this was balanced by Circles ability to create forests wherever they felt like it - very nice!!!

The Battlefield
Circle & Menoth deployment

Khador & Everblight deployment & 1st moves

Key was for us to work together. As Protectorate are melee troops I needed to get into close combat quickly. Plan was for Richards Circle to provide initial cover with the mobile forests and use his faster units to screen my tougher melee troops and Warjacks. Kreoss's spells and the Menoth unit orders allowed added DEF & ARM bonuses which worked well. Rather than spread ourselves across the board as Khador & Everblight did we concentrated in the middle with the intent of charging straight ahead right at the Khador & Everblight Warcasters ignoring their flanking units on either side. Kreoss's knockdown feat would be used as soon as the enemy Warcasters were in range and then we would move in for the kill.

The opening turns
These pretty much went as we hoped they would. The Khador bombards failed to hit and kill anything and some bad dice rolls saved the Flameguard and Cleansers from getting whittled down early. The Khador & Everblight flanking units (with the exception of the Longunners) played little part in the game as their forces seemed to anchor themselves behind the village and wait for us to advance to them.

Circle's Baldur Stonecleaver advances
The Circle & Menoth battlelines reach charge range

I think the initial moves from our side were a surprise with our heavy units all advancing directly up the middle. Only the Temple Flameguard and Cleansers diverged away from the centre as we stuck to our plan and went for the Warcasters. First casualities on each side were light until we were all within charge range.

Melee combat is joined
Now things started to get messy. The Khador Warjacks and Everblight monsters started doing some serious damage to the Crusaders - one is heavily damaged losing its left arm and suffering near fatal damage to its remaining systems. Shooting on both sides takes its toll but not as badly as either side would have hoped. Funniest moment of the initial charges was having Hank's Everblight infantry unit charge a Crusader with Retribution on it - 4D6 damage roll does 2 damage to the Crusader, while Retribution turns the attacker into a really really really small pile of goo as he is smashed to a pulp.

Khador & EverBlight forces rally after their initial charge attacks

A couple of great moves by Khador though nearly sink things. A Slam attack by Toshi (he likes those) knocks the undamaged Crusader back into the Flameguard unit, knocks it down and kills one of the Flameguard along with a key Circle character. With the other Crusader heavily damaged and the charge routes of key Circle units blocked our options are badly reduced. Things are going better on the left flank though as here the Cleansers (for the 2nd game in a row) actually do something other than die and roast the Khador Longunners.

Khador infantry watch as Menoth march forward

Cleanser Officer gives order to advance on the left flank

Everblight & Flameguard prepare for combat

The Templeflameguard are also able to advance pretty much unscathed toward the key Everblight units now hiding behind the village, and put themselves in a position to flank the Everblight caster.

Flameguard flank Everblight

The grand melee

The game was pretty much decided at this point. Even though serious damage had been done on the Crusaders and on some of the Circle infantry units Kreoss was now in position to use his feat, knocking down everything within 14". Some careful planning saw the remaining able Crusader move into combat with the Khador Warjacks, and the Temple Flameguard advance within reach range of the Everblight caster. Menoth took first blood killing a couple of Everblight units and scoring 3 damage on their caster. Fantastic shooting and magic from Circle then finished her off which sent the Everblight monsters into a panic. With the Everblight army now destroyed, Khador was now alone and severly weakened against 2 largely unscathed armies. We played out about one more turn here then called it quits for a solid Menoth - Circle victory.

October 23, 2008

Removing paint from old figures

Being searching for a way to remove paint from old figures so I could re-do them from scratch, because seriously adding more and more layers of paint to them just makes them look rubbish. So after some bouncing around in cyberspace I just found the following article which compares three different options for removing paint. This includes the use of Brake Fluid (yes that rights, Rob at the Club told me about this one and I was sceptical but it works apparently), Oven Cleaner and a standard household cleaner.

Anyway the article is from a blog called Santa Cruz Warhammer and you can read it here

New project - High Elf tournament army

Made a decision last night that I've collected too many High Elves and need to start consolidating some of my stuff. After reading Plastic Legions, which is an outstanding blog by the way, I got some inspiration and enthusiasm for getting back into my Warhammer painting. Because I've been concentrating on warmachine lately, and as real life has been kind of busy, I've literally had my Warhammer guys packed away for over a month now.

So as of today I am going to start my High Elf Tournament Army Project which is going to be my erstwhile attempt to create a great looking 2150-2250pt High Elf army that I can use at Warhammer tournaments and that looks good in display. So far the plan includes getting rid of my 4th Edition Spearmen and Archers (can't be bothered painting them and the figures aren't as good even though I got them dirt cheap), and adding the following new units to my High Elf force:

  • 7th Edition unit of High Elf Archers
  • Unit of Shadow Warriors
  • Another 10-12 Swordmasters
  • A Lion Chariot or 2

Will also need to get some more modular movement trays and start looking at a more consistent theme for what I what to do. The current paint schem on my Phoenix Guard and 7th Edition Spearmen is Ok but needs some touching up.

I will however, paint strip my Dragon Princes and start them again from scratch along with the new box set to have a nice big unit of 10 - thats task number #1. Going with what I have already and what I have found that works I have narrowed the list down to the following:

  • Archmage
  • Noble (Mounted)
  • Noble (Battle Standard)
  • 20 x Spearmen
  • 16 x Archers
  • 20 x Phoenix Guard
  • 16 x Swordmasters
  • 8 x Shadow Warriors
  • 1 x Bolt-Thrower

That still leaves me approx 300 pts to assign to an additional couple of units, e.g., Lion Chariot, another Bolt-Thrower or a few more Spearmen or on magic items to equip the standard bearers in the units and the Heroes

October 9, 2008

Completed Menoth Battle Group

After finishing Amon Ad-Raza last night and Purity Sealing everything this morning, I was left with the following little battle group for use tonight. Will also be taking a Revenger, a Vassal and some Cleansers but havent quite decided what Ill use yet. Photos all taken with Digital Camera this time, not my phone, which is why they look better.
[Photos should expand when clicked on]
Temple Flameguard

Wish I could say I painted these but it would be a lie. Purchased them off Trade Me last week and I was blown away when they arrived. First because there were more of them than I thought a Unit of 5 + Officer, 4 extra troops & a Standard Bearer w. Officer, and secondly because the paint job was just fantastic. The next models I did paint.

Crusader (1st model I completed)

Same Crusader from back

Revenger (really enjoyed painting these)

A Menoth Battle Box all complete

Painting High Exemplar Kreoss

Now this one took me a while, a lot longer than Amon who I finished in two nights. Extra time was basically due to my stuffing up the original colour scheme. I was trying to use Blue instead of Red but this didnt work. That and the nature of Kreoss's armour made deciding on the detailing a bit tricky.

[Images should expand when clicked on]

The painting process in detail
Normal base coating process to begin with using standard (non Citadel) white spray paint. After that I started on the armoured bits first using Bolt-Gun Metal to cover the exposed areas. On top of this went some Black Ink followed by some Chainmail to highlight the raised areas. Final touch was the application of a thin layer of Mithril Silver on some parts of the armour, principally the plates covering the legs and lower body.

Red areas were done in exactly the same way as Amon Ad-Raza. Scab Red followed by Blood Red, then Red Ink and alternating layers of Blood Red/Scab Red and Warlock Purple to aid in highlighting and shading etc.

White robes were definately the trickiest part. Originally went without the highlighting but decided to add it and was glad I did. All it is in Bleached Bone applied to all the recessed areas with additional layers of Skull White on the raised areas to bring them out more.

Final touches were Chaos Black to the crosses on the shoulder, Bolt Gun Metal to the bolts on the Shoulder Plates and Helmet, and Chainmail to the faceplate. Also used a little bit of Mithril Silver to highlight some of the studs around the leg plates. After that I coated Kreoss, and every other finished model, in Hard Coat.

Painting Amon Ad-Raza Menoth Warcaster

Have completed painting majority of my Protectorate miniatures now and have purity sealed those that are complete. Finished results look better than I thought they would, with some obvious improvement along the way. Happiest with Kreoss and Amon Ad-Raza both of which have turned out really well.
[Photos should all expand when clicked on]

The Painting Process
Base coated with standard white paint, not the GW stuff but just some cheap stuff from Mitre 10 (thats a hardware store). Metal areas were started with Boltgun Metal. Over this was a full layer of Black Ink. The Golden areas had a thin layer of Shining Gold applied followed by a thinner layer of Chestnut Ink. Chainmail & Mithril Silver was added to other areas to aid in highlighting. If you havent used Chestnut Ink to highlight Gold I would strongly suggest it as it gives it a great realistic look.

The Red areas have four layers. Started with Scab Red then a layer of Blood Red leaving the edges exposed as much as possible. Over this went a layer of Red Ink and then some touch ups with a Scab Red/Blood Red mix. Finally a thinned down layer of Warlock Purple but only a few areas to aid in highlighting (In the side view you can see the effect of this on the front edge of Amon's head covering).

The White robes were started with a layer of Bleached Bone to fill in the diamond pattern. Over this I put a couple of thin layers of Skull White. Unfortunately it was only on the back that I remembered not to fill in the diamond pattern, which is why you can see it there and not elsewhere. Snakebite leather was used on the boots and leggings.

Skin has been done with a base coat of Dwarf Flesh, followed by a full layer of Flesh Wash. Once dried I used Dwarf flesh on the raised areas leaving enough Flesh Wash in the gaps to highlight the various muscles. Finally a few touches of Elf Flesh on the higher areas to really highlight everything. You can see the detail a lot better on Amon's back.

Finally the base. The sand was glued on before I undercoated the entire model so was already white. After that I dry brushed alternate layers of Chestnut Ink, Fortress Grey, and Bleached Bone over it before adding the Grass flock and the little rock thing. Final touch before Purity Seal was applied was to re-touch the base with Chaos Black.

October 8, 2008

Painting High Elf Swordmasters (Part 1)

Got a unit of 8 Swordmasters the other day. WS6 and S4 (w. Great Weapon) and 2 attacks striking first make them damn good, and a lot better than your average S3 High Elf Spearmen. Decided to paint them in a similar colour scheme to my Dragon Princes to make them stand out as an Elite unit. So rather than Silver/Chainmail armour they have Blue armour mixed with Chainmail. Upper Armour and Helmets have been painted in following colours:
  • Regal Blue basecoat
  • Enchanted Blue except around edges
  • Space Marine Blue on raised areas
  • (Probably) bit of Blue Ink in recessed parts
  • Pale Blue along key joints
I'll start posting my painting efforts etc here, working on one figure at moment to get colour scheme right. Very pleased with gem stones on Sword, first time I have actually managed to get more than one colour on one of them. Gone with
  • Scab red base coat
  • Blood red on lower half
  • Yellow on lower quarter
  • White dot in upper corner
  • Bit of Red Ink to give it some shine
Really does help to have some decent brushes. I am going to have to buy some more today as all of my original ones are completely stuffed.

Newest Warcaster

Amon Ad-Raza has just joined the ranks of my Protectorate of Menoth army. Very enjoyable figure to paint, principally as he has a lot of skin and its the one area I'm actually good at highlighting etc. His focus is lower than Kreoss's at 5 and his feat isnt as good, no knockdown, but I'll use him tomorrow night as I really like the combination of stuff he brings and his ability to melee fight. Ill get some pictures of my painting efforts up in a bit - in interim heres the official one.

However, as it will be my first use of Amon I might save him for a 750pt game so I can include two warcasters Kreoss and Amon so I have at least one I am familar with. Next acquisition for Menoth will have to be Feora Priestess of the Flame - as I have a lot of Temple Flameguard, some Cleansers and 3 Repenters her ability to get bonuses from models on fire will be well used.

Although I really do want to order an Avatar Unique Warjack as those things are just damn awesome. But then again once I get Feora then Castigators with their flame fists become much more attractive as an offensive option. Combine them with Temple Flameguard, Cleansers and Repenters and have an entire army that sets everything it hits on fire.

October 3, 2008

Warmachine Battle Report 500pts

Crusade to the Everblight
Protectorate of Menoth vs. Legions of Everblight

Two very interesting and highly enjoyable battles tonight my Menoth up against Hanks Legions of Everblight/Warmachine vs. Hordes. While Hank had played against Warmachine armies before, namely Toshi's Khador, this was my first Hordes encounter. But it was also his against Menoth so we both gave each other a few nasty surprises. My lists for both games were broadly similar, mainly as my collection is still limited, across both games I used the following:

  • Exemplar Kreoss
  • Crusader
  • Crusader
  • Revenger
  • Revenger
  • Flameguard Cleansers Unit
  • Vassal
Game 1
Went fairly slowly as we were getting used to the rules and learning about each others armies. Big shock for me was finding out (after deploying to make use of terrain) that Everblight figures dont suffer movement penalties through terrain, at least not under certain conditions. That and the arcing fire from the Legion Warcaster (or whatever Hordes calls them) made Kreoss life difficult. First couple of rounds were mainly movement based with some minor RAT coming in from the Legion forces. Each side suffered a number of casualties with Kreoss's knockdown feat working well and allowing the Warjacks to close in and score some good hits. The Cleansers once again failed to do anything other than die *sigh* but at least they proved distracting. Didn't help that I forgot to run them into combat in the first couple of rounds and effectively negated any chance they had of contributing to the battle. Kreoss's feat was almost the winning of the game for Menoth as I had all 3 of my Warjacks (Crusader & 2 Revengers) right up close on the principle Legion units and Warcaster. Unfortunately I left him with 1 wound left at the end of my round and failed to kill him. So what happens he bounces back arc fires at Kreoss and kills him with two shots!!!!! End result a disappointing loss.

Game 2
This one was much much much closer - in fact in came down to the very last minute with only Kreoss and a single undamaged Crusader up against the Legion Warcaster and 2 of the little bity things (growlers or something). Massive rounds of combat had seen various Warjacks fall. Kreoss also stayed hidden from melee and ranged fire this time round and allocated focus better. The dropping of his feat at the ideal time also saw the big Warjacks wipe out the larger Legion units in the centre, and even gave the Cleansers a few kills when their flamethrowers burned the stationary Legion infantry. Funniest point of the game for me was when I had a Crusader pick up a Legion archer and throw her one handed only to have her land.... at his feet... when he was trying to bif her into another archer a few inches to the front. The Archer died but still it was a sneaky way to off someone.

Game 2 in Pictures
The following images are all from Game 2 the bigger of the two we played tonight. Of the 15-20 I took on my phone these are the best ones, quality isnt that great but hey you get the picture. Most of the fighting took place on my left flank. The map basically had a large forest on the right, a smaller one in the middle, and a Village and wall on the left joining the centre forest. You can click on them all to get bigger images.

Picture 1
Legion Archer things look south as a Menoth Crusader & Revenger advance

Picture 2
The same Warjacks arrive at the village wall

Picture 3
Moments later the Cleansers arrive in support

Picture 4
Kreoss drops his feat, the Cleansers burn up the Legion infantry, and the Crusader advances over the village wall into combat

Picture 5
In the forest the Revenger is met by the Legions big beastie (?!?)

Picture 6
The sole surviving Cleanser watches the Crusader chase the remaining Legion Archer around behind the Village

Picture 7
Kreoss with his sole remaining Crusader with all systems operational waits for the surviving
Legion forces.
Picture 8
The last move of Menoth, rather than stay still & shield Kreoss the Crusader moves forward to engage the Legion Warcaster... but fails to kill him